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May 282020 Gossip
 

Cutting hair is the staple of every stylist’s working week!

hob academy

How many cutting techniques do you use?
According to four-times British Hairdresser of the Year, Akin Konizi from HOB Salons, there are five main methods every hairdresser should know
. “Using the right cutting techniques can add movement and dimension to a hairstyle. Once you know the right techniques to use, you can create any shape or texture. It’s about using the right techniques to help you develop your cutting skills.”

The five cutting methods every hairdresser should know.

1 Layering
The most important technique but often the most underestimated. Good layering helps you create the material for all your shapes. You can use it for every shape, texture and hair type.

2 Graduation
Graduation is used to build up weight, with geometric lines either with or without tension and will form the outline of any shape you create.

3 Reverse Graduation
This is the best kept secret in hairdressing! It’s the opposite of each section getting shorter; each section is getting longer. It was used a lot in the 80s to create hard, strong geometry. The modern version is to use it on one-length styles. Use it on one-length styles to combat graduation.

4 Texturising
Texturising isn’t taken seriously enough. It’s about cutting shorter lengths into your longer lengths to create an internal shape in your haircut that will work as a structure to your styles. Sometimes it will give a softening effect, or it can be used to thin out the hair. Texturising offers a whole world of possibilities and potentials by manipulating weight.

5 Precision Cutting
Precision cutting is not just for geometry. It’s how I do all my cuts, it’s about doing your work precisely; if it’s a messy haircut, you still cut it with precision. If you want to create texture or choppiness, you still use precision.

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Dec 112019 Gossip
 

HOB Salons has been named as Best Salon Group at the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Luncheon & Award 2019, beating the best of business in the hairdressing industry.

Directors Akin Konizi, Clive Collins and Paul Simbler collected the award in front of their peers at a glittering lunch at the Intercontinental Hotel in London’s Park Lane. HOB Academy head of education, Jake Unger, also picked up the award for Snapshot Image of the Year with a beautiful copper style.

jake unger
Jake Unger Look

HOB Salons, which has some 25 salons and employs more than 480 team members, celebrated its 35th anniversary last year and adds these trophies to their collection of 60 other creative, business and international awards.

Akin said: “We are delighted to win the Salon Group award, which is for everyone that works for HOB Salons. We have some amazing people within the company and we are very proud they have been recognised for the work they do.”

4 (80%) 1 vote[s]
Dec 022019 Gossip
 

“Wearable geometry was my goal with these haircuts” Akin Konizi,
international creative director, HOB Academy

LOOK 1

1 – Divide the back from the front at the back of the ear, then split the back in half from the top to the nape. Take sections parallel to your baseline.
Once you’re happy with the outline shape, begin to work up one side first with even tension and cutting on the skin. Repeat on opposite side.
2 – Once both sides are complete, start to create the length on the side area. Taking a horizontal section continue the shape through the sides,
allowing for the ear area – and once again using even tension to create a small amount of graduation, enabling the hair to have a bevel. Continue up to the parting and then repeat on the opposite side.
3 – The most focal point of this haircut is the fringe. Usually a fringe area would be from the parting and then to either recession area, forming a triangle shaped section. For this particular haircut the fringe area was extended towards the ear area to give a twist on a classic bob shape.
Once sectioned off, take sections parallel to the hairline and cut the desired shape. Continue with even tension to complete the shape.
4 – Blow-dry with a Denman brush, then a round brush, and finish with styling irons.

LOOK 2

1 – Section the length from just under the occipital bone in a curved horseshoe-shaped section. It’s best to think of this haircut as a short hair with longer length around the perimeter shape.
2 – Work with a classic round layer to allow the hair to hug the head shape. I would advise to keep the top slightly square to ensure you do not create
a corner which would result in added weight on top.
Choose the optimal length carefully to allow for texturizing afterwards. Also, slightly lift towards the bottom of the sides to keep a little more weight at the bottom to later create the stronger outline.
3 – Take horizontal sections on the side, and create a geometric outline whilst still keeping an element of softness over the ears.
4 – Texturize throughout and cut the fringe to the desired length.

Haircut by Akin Konizi, international creative director, HOB Academy, London
Colour: Warren Boodaghian, head of technical, HOB Academy

5 (100%) 1 vote[s]
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